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CONTENTS
WOODLANDS - A RENEWABLE
HERITAGE
 For
centuries the woodland and fells around the River Leven were
a hive of industry. The medieval population used wood in a
variety of ways from charcoal making to swill basket weaving.
Iron smelting, using locally produced charcoal, was carried
out in small furnaces or 'bloomeries' in the woods. In the
18th century, the demands of large blast furnaces and gunpowder
works put further pressure on local woodlands in their appetite
for charcoal.
The survival of these woodlands was due to coppice management
- a system that provided a ready source of timber whilst allowing
trees to regenerate. However, as demand for coppiced wood
declined in late Victorian times onwards the woods were neglected
or were replaced with the new cash crop - conifers.
Today, coppiced woodlands are being worked again by a number
of dedicated coppice workers, who are turning coppiced timber
into a huge array of attractive and serviceable items.
WOODLAND PRODUCTS
Coppicing and coppice products
Coupes are managed areas of deciduous woodland, providing
a regular supply of coppiced poles for various uses. The preferred
trees - oak, ash, hazel, birch and alder - are cut down at
ground level and allowed to grow a number of shoots. These
are harvested after 12 to 20 years, leaving the stools to
grow another coppice cycle. Coppiced poles were used for a
variety of purposes - bobbins, charcoal production, besom
handles, etc.
Actively managed coppice woodland can be seen at Roudsea
Wood, Haverthwaite (SD330827). Permit required. Leaflet available
from English Nature (tel: 015395 31604)
Charcoal
 Traditionally,
charcoal was made in late summer/early autumn by colliers.
Coppiced poles (shanklings) about 1 metre (3ft) long would
be stacked on end around a central 'motty peg' (A), covered
with earth (B) and turves (C) and then slowly burned from
within. The colliers lived in huts nearby (D), keeping a watchful
eye on the burning process day and night to ensure the fires
burned at the right temperature to slowly char the wood.
 Swill
baskets
Swill baskets, made of thinly riven oak, were once an important
part of the local economy with whole families engaged in making
them by the thousand. George Barker of Backbarrow began making
swills in 1858, founding the firm of George Barker & Sons.
The company produced swill baskets until 1956. The baskets
were a part of everyday life - being used for farming, peat
cutting, rubbish collection, bobbin milling and general use
in the home.
Chop wood and potash
Small circular stone pits sunk into the ground are found throughout
the area. Some were used to make potash by burning green bracken
and birch twigs. Potash lye was an important constituent of
the soap used by fullers to clean their pieces of cloth. Similar
pits were used to dry chop wood for smelting and other uses.
Besoms
 These
'witches brooms' were made of seasoned birch twigs, bound
with strips of elm bark, willow or wire. In Victorian times
the women of Finsthwaite were expected to make 36 dozen (432)
besoms a day for the princely sum of ½d per dozen -
or 7.5p a day!
Bobbins
In the 19th century, wooden bobbins were supplied to the cotton
mills in huge quantities. Bobbin mills were found all over
Cumbria wherever there was easy access to coppice woods and
a source of running water for energy.
Today, only Stott Park Bobbin Mill remains with its machinery
in working order.
Barrels and hoops
Coopers (barrel makers) used wood from a variety of trees
(oak, birch, sycamore, ash, elm, spruce, poplar or beech)
depending on the type of barrel they were making. The shaped
wooden pieces (or staves) were bound with hoops made of split
hazel rods - another woodland product.
Tan bark
The bark peeling of young oak trees (c. 20 years old) was
carried out between May and July when the sap was rising.
The bark was ringed, split lengthwise and then eased off.
Once dried it was sent to one of the many local tanneries
for use in the production of leather.
Discover the complete tanning process at Rusland Tannery.
Gunpowder
The manufacture of gunpowder in Cumbria began in 1764. Its
production put severe strain on the local woodlands as the
process needed huge quantities of charcoal and thousands of
barrels for packaging.
Iron
 Medieval
bloomeries smelted local iron ore using charcoal as the fuel.
The 'bloom', a slaggy lump of semi-molten iron, was removed
from the furnace and hammered to remove the slag. This produced
a piece of wrought iron weighing about 10-15 kilos (25-35
lbs). During the early 18th century, blast furnaces were developed.
As they were able to reach much higher temperatures, the pig
iron could be extracted in liquid form. Packhorses regularly
travelled between the mines at Dalton in Furness and the woodland
bloomeries carrying iron ore and limestone. The horses and
their drivers were often stained red from the iron oxide of
the ore
Duddon Blast Furnace (1736-1867) on the western side
of the Duddon valley is the best preserved in northwest England.
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THE WOODLAND
WORKER'S YEAR
October: Wood sales (19th century)
November to April: Woodcutting
May to July: Bark peeling and potash burning
August to November: Charcoal burning
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WALKING THE WOODLANDS
These four trails focus on the woodland industries of the
area. The network of public and permitted footpaths shown
on the map can be accessed from different points and routes
adapted as necessary. Walks can be linked in with local buses
and Lake Windermere Cruises. The privately operated Haverthwaite-Lakeside
railway also provides a convenient means of linking footpaths
and trails.
The Ordnance Survey map - Explorer OL7, (English Lakes, SE
area) - should be used in conjunction with the leaflet map.
Don't forget to check the weather conditions before embarking
on the walks and wear suitable clothing and footwear.
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THE COUNTRY CODE
- Keep dogs under close control
- Take your litter home
- Leave all gates and property as
you find them
- Protect plants and animals
- Leave archaeological sites undisturbed
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Please
click here for a map of the the trails (270KB)
TANNING AND
TARN TRAIL
Varying grades of walks and distances depending on starting
point. As a guide, Backbarrow to Rusland Tannery is 6.3 km/
4 miles (1hr 50min); Rusland Tannery to High Dam car park
is 4 km/ 2½ miles (1hr 15min)
Enjoy some outstanding viewpoints on this longer walk across
the Rusland Heights to High Dam.
1. Surviving feature: Animal skins were converted
to leather in the Rusland Tannery. Oak bark rich in
tannin, was soaked in water to produce the liquid used in
the tanning pits here. The tannery produced 'heavy' leather
for boot uppers and soles, harness and strong straps.
2. Surviving feature: Colton Bloomery is now
only visible as a grassy mound. Do not disturb or remove any
stone or slag from this archaeological site.
3. Rusland Beeches: These magnificent beeches, in
the care of the Lake District National Park Authority, are
renowned for the vivid colour of their leaves in autumn.
4. Surviving feature: High Dam reservoir provided
the water supply to drive the mill machinery at Stott Park
Bobbin Mill
PITSTEADS AND
POTASH
A gentle walk on woodland paths, with some slopes. 3.5km/2
miles (1hr)
Most of the woodland on Haverthwaite Heights has regenerated
naturally since coppicing ended. Oak and birch are the dominant
species with conifers planted later. The small group of yews
on the brow of the Heights survive from the ancient woodland.
 1.
Surviving features: Haverthwaite Heights abounds
with evidence of charcoal making. Many pitsteads (at least
35) have been identified. They show up as flat platforms where
the timber was stacked in a circular mound for burning. Some
were built into the slope of the hill with a revetted stone
wall in front. Nearby would be huts belonging to the colliers
or bark peelers.
2. Discover: A
bark peeler's hut with a stone base (including a fireplace)
can be found next to the main path in Parrock Wood. Lower
down are the remains of a potash kiln and another hut base,
with several more pitsteads.
3. Surviving features:
The ancient walls on the woodland's eastern slope mark
the boundaries of fields turned over from sheep farming to
more lucrative coppicing in the 18th century.
Collier's huts were circular and built with wooden
poles rather like a wigwam and 'thacked' with overlapping
turves, like tiles on a roof. Doors were usually made of sacking.
Because of their construction the huts have completely disappeared
and can now only be seen in old photographs.
BOBBINS AND BLOOMERIES
A varied walk, steep in parts. 5.5km/3½ miles (1hr
45min)
1. Stott Park Bobbin Mill,
where millions of bobbins were made for the cotton mills
of Lancashire, is the only bobbin mill surviving with working
machinery.
2. Discover: At
High Dam car park look for the large bobbin with a
topographical map of the area on top. The inscription around
the edge sums up the uses of wood and water: 'This is the
water that turns the wheel, that spins the lathe, that shapes
the wood, to make the bobbin, to wind the thread, that wove
the wealth of Lancashire. These are the trees, that cut by
man, will sprout again, feed Stott Mill, to make the bobbins
to earn the pay, that fed the folk of Finsthwaite.'
3. Surviving feature:
By the entrance to High Dam look down the beck to a
board set in the wall. Below this is the 18 inch pipe that
channelled the water to drive the waterwheel of the bobbin
mill. The flow of water in this 'bywash' could be increased
by damming the beck with removeable sluices.
4. Surviving feature:
Several early iron smelting furnaces or bloomeries
operated around Finsthwaite. Look for solidified ash or pieces
of slag set into the walls.
5. Surviving feature:
The walk from Finsthwaite to Newby Bridge cuts through fields
grazed by Swaledale and Herdwick sheep. The mixed oak/birch
woodland is known as Wintering Park, from the days
when stock was pastured here over the winter months.
 6.
Surviving feature: At the top of Water Side Knott is
Pennington Lodge Tower. The tower, built in 1799, was
erected in honour of 'the officers, seamen and marines whose
matchless conduct and irresistible valour decisively defeated
the fleets of France, Spain and Holland and preserved and
protected liberty and commerce, 1799.'
7. Water Side Knott,
Summer House Knott and Great Knott Woods: Oak predominates
in the mixed oak/birch woodlands, with alders growing in the
marshy spots. By contrast, Great Knott Wood is planted mainly
with Norway Spruce and Scots Pine. This wood is owned by the
Woodland Trust who intend to return it to natural broadleaved
species.
BASKETS, 'BLUE' AND BLAST FURNACES
A fairly level walk on local roads and linking footpaths.
3km/ 1¾ miles (45min)
1. Discover the
history of coppicing and Cumbria's greenwood industries by
visiting the Woodland Heritage Exhibition at George
Barker & Sons.
2. Surviving features:
The River Leven has supported a variety of mills over
the years. The original corn mill gave way to a paper mill
in the early 1700s, and was later converted for cotton manufacture.
Its final use, before conversion to a hotel, was for manufacturing
blue dyes and pigments used in paint, bleach and as whitening
for domestic washing - Dolly Blue bags.
From the bridge, look to the left downstream. Below the hotel
is the original archway allowing water back to the river after
it had been used to drive the waterwheel in the mill.
3. Surviving feature:
A short detour up the Finsthwaite Road leads to Chapelstone
Cottages. A plaque on the building commemorates the chapel
built in 1850 on this site. The original swill-basket making
workshop and woodyard belonging to George Barker & Sons
were on land adjacent to the Chapel.
4. Surviving feature:
The road to Haverthwaite leads past the Backbarrow
Furnace. Established in 1711 it is the oldest ironworks
in Cumbria and continued in production until 1965. Please
note that this site is dangerous and not open to the public.
It should be viewed only from the road.
5. Surviving feature:
Bare Sykes (Privately owned, no access) was the home
of the Wilkinsons. Isaac, a foundryman at Backbarrow Furnace
from 1735 invented a way of making box irons in one piece.
His famous son, 'Iron Mad John' founded an industrial empire
using iron. He created the first iron bridge, an iron boat
and even his own iron coffin.
6. Discover: An
uphill detour from Backbarrow brings you to Trundle Brow sign
at Low Brow Edge. Look across to Haverthwaite Heights.
In the spring, notice the darker yew copse on the top
and the stripe of lighter green leaves and trunks on the right
showing where ash trees thrive on the nutrients carried down
by water in gullies.
MAP INFORMATION
Finsthwaite
For centuries the inhabitants of Finsthwaite depended on products
derived from the local woods for their livelihoods.
Finsthwaite Folklore
The 'Princess' Clementina Johannes Sobiesky Douglass lodged
at Waterside House in Finsthwaite (privately owned, no access)
and was buried in the church in 1771. She was reputedly related
to a Polish princess who married the Old Pretender (James
III) in 1719. Others link her with Bonnie Prince Charlie,
as part of his entourage, but no one really knows the true
story
Ealinghearth
In 1596 Miles and William Sawrey were given a licence 'To
make two little houses and hearths called Ealinghearths'.
Here potash lye was made.
Lowwood Gunpowder Works
The Clock tower, administrative block, charcoal store, stables
and a boiler house are the only surviving buildings.
Stott Park Bobbin Mill
Discover how bobbins were made, the machinery involved (including
a working steam engine) and the people who made them. Guided
tours between April and October. A Scheduled Ancient Monument
in the care and protection of English Heritage
Stony Hazel Forge
The forge combined a bloomery hearth and forge. The bellows
and the forge hammer were water powered.
Backbarrow Company
Pig iron from their furnace was used to make 20,000 pieces
of cast-iron goods annually in the 1750s, including box irons,
sad (solid) irons, fire grates, heaters, cast iron balusters,
loom stoves and pans, skillet and possnet (cooking pot) handles,
hatter's basins and Guinea kettles.
Hill Top. Home of Arthur Ransome, author of 'Swallows
and Amazons'.
DO YOU HAVE A WOODLAND SURNAME?
Barker - removed the bark of trees for use in tanning,
matting.
Turner - probably used a pole lathe to make turned
items.
Woodburn/Ashburner - produced ash for making soap.
Cowper/Cooper/Tubman - made wooden barrels
Collier - charcoal burner
Tanner - tanned leather using oak bark
Bloomer/Blumer - smelted iron
Hooper - made hoops for barrels
COPPICE TREES
 ASH
- Tough, long grained, flexible and resilient
Used for carts, handles, wheels, oars
ALDER - Tough, light, withstands water
Used for charcoal, bowls, platters, clog soles
BIRCH - Mediocre, easily bent
Used for ploughs, gates, fences, barrel staves, besoms
HAZEL - Slender and pliant rods.
Used for basketry, hurdles, thatching spars
OAK - Strong and durable
Used for furniture, wheels, house frames, baskets. Bark used
for tanning
FURTHER INFORMATION
Before visiting the following attractions, please check opening
times.
George Barker & Sons
Lakeland's Woodland Heritage Exhibition & tearoom
Tel: 015395 31236
www.timbergardenfurniture.com
Lakeside & Haverthwaite Railway
Tel: 015395 31594
www.lakesiderailway.co.uk
Stottt Park Bobbin Mill
Open Easter to October only.
Tel: 015395 31087
www.english-heritage.org.uk
Windermere Lake Cruises
Tel: 015395 3118
www.windermere-lakecruises.co.uk
GETTING AROUND
For details on public transport, please contact Traveline
on 08700 608 2608.
Email: info@traveline-cumbria.co.uk.
Website: www.traveline.org.uk.
CREDITS
Produced by Anna Gray at Voluntary Action Cumbria for LEADER+
(Cumbria Fells & Dales)
Text & Illustrations by David Sorrell
Design copyright Sorrell Design
Topographical map by Kaye Sorrell
Printed by Reeds of Penrith, 2006.
Images supplied by Patrick Payne, Janet Martin, Kaye Sorrell,
Stott Park Bobbin Mill, Abbot Hall Art Gallery & Museum.
LEADER+ (Cumbria Fells & Dales)
The Old Stables,
Redhills,
Penrith,
Cumbria,
CA11 0DT
Tel: 01768 869533
Email: info@fellsanddales.org.uk
Website: www.fellsanddales.org.uk
Fells and Dales LEADER+ Programme is based at Voluntary Action
Cumbria, a company limited by guarantee, Charity No. 1080875,
Companyh No. 3957858.
This is one of a series of themed trails being produced
by LEADER+ (Cumbria Fells & Dales) to promote the area
and its local products.
Whilst every effort has been made to ensure that the content
of this trail is accurate and up to date at the time of writing,
no liability can be accepted for any errors, omissions or
misrepresentations of fact contained herein.
 
This project is being part financed by the European Agriculture
Guidance adn Guarantee Fund of the European Union and the
Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs through
the Cumbria Fells and Dales LEADER+ Programme.
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